Monthly Archives: March 2010

Two Alsatians

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For those who enjoy white wines, it doesn’t get much better than Alsace.

From harmonious matches made in food heaven, even at the low end, to cellar-worthy additions that will experience chameleonic change over years, sometimes decades, of aging potential, there is something for everyone in this most famous of white wine regions.

Alsace lies in a northeastern pocket of France bordering the Vosges mountain range, an area blessed with soils rich in minerals and a continental climate.

The first vineyards were planted in Alsace more than 2,000 years ago. Today, over 5,000 wine producers exist in Alsace, with roughly 220 of the largest wineries representing 90% of all production.

There are three AOC (classified) appellations in Alsace:

Alsace AOC

Expect fresh, fruity and food-friendly still wines made generally of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Sylvaner, Pinot Gris or Pinot Blanc.

Alsace Grand Cru AOC

Single vineyard, premium still wines made only from the noble Alsatian varietals: Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. Accounts for roughly 4% of total production in Alsace. Grand Crus usually display higher complexity and characteristics of the vines’ terroir. Some late harvest wines are made under this classification.

Crémant d’Alsace AOC

Mainly made from Pinot Blanc, although some Crémant Roses are produced by blending with Pinot Noir, this is Alsace’s sparkling wine classification.

Moreover, these three classifications comprise the only French AOCs that can be officially labeled by varietal.

Below, a quick glance at two different Alsace AOC wines that I hope will whet your appetite for more!

Facts and figures above courtesy of Thierry Fritsch of CIVA (Conseil interprofessionel des vins d’Alsace – www.vinsalsace.com), with whom I had the pleasure of dining with in June 2009.

My very first attempt at cooking with phyllo pastry shown here.

Dopff et Irion “Les Crustaces” Alsace AOC 2007

Opened January 22, 2010. This golden blonde beauty is a blend of Sylvaner, Auxerrois Blanc (sometimes called Pinot Auxerrois) and Pinot Blanc. The nose is subtly juicy, with fresh aromas of lychee (litchi), peaches and pears with a touch of minerality. An off-dry, juicy palate of pears, citrus and apple flavours is underscored by refreshing acidity and notes of stone and gravel through the finish. Trust the label’s nod to crustaceans and pair with poached prawns, fresh crab or a scallop ceviche. Huge value! $12

Yes, that is a Mac in the background.

Pierre Sparr Riesling Alsace AOC 2005

Opened January 29, 2010. It’s not quite the neon hue of Mountain Dew, but it’s certainly a bright lemon yellow. Equally vibrant is its fragrant nose of lime peel, stones and white flowers with Granny Smith apple notes. This wine’s palate shows the greener side of Alsace: Citrus, lime, green apples, chalk and wet stones form a tart mélange on the tongue with bracing acidity that hints at several more years’ worth of enjoyment. Try alongside a lemony sole meuniere for the “like with like” pairing, or contrast it with another Alsatian specialty, onion tart, for a tasty balancing act. $13 for 375 ml (can be found in full bottles for $20)

See Ya Later, Momo My Pal

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This post is dedicated to Momo, my family’s beloved dog that passed away this evening.

Friendly, playful and always eager to show her affection, it was a joy to have her as part of my family for the last 13 years.

Momo, you were a great friend. I will always miss you.

MOMO 1997 - 2010

In tribute to Momo and special pets everywhere, my wine for this post is the dog-themed See Ya Later Ranch “Jimmy My Pal” 2008 white blend.

Known as Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards (old label here) until the early to mid 2000s, See Ya Later Ranch was once the home of a Major Hugh Fraser, one of the first people to settle in Okanagan Falls – a town that, quite misleadingly, has no actual waterfalls.

Fraser was a great lover of dogs, even going so far as to build his own dog cemetery on the ranch (which still exists). This Vincor-owned winery, headed by winemaker Dave Carson, whom I have had the great pleasure to meet and work with, has since adopted Fraser’s life story as the See Ya Later brand’s driving force.

If you ever have the chance to visit Okanagan wine country, I highly encourage a drive up to See Ya Later Ranch. Nestled atop a huge hill at the end of a steep and windy road – it’s a good 15-minute drive uphill from Highway 97 – the tenacious wine lover is rewarded with breathtaking scenery of the Okanagan Valley as well as one of the area’s loveliest-looking tasting rooms with a view.

Weather forecast: 80% likelihood of further T-shirt precipitation. 50% chance of raspberry. (Sean at See Ya Later's winery gate - photo by me)

Pet accessories abound in the winery shop, which also accepts donations to the SPCA in lieu of added tasting fees – another clever extension of Fraser’s goodwill toward man’s best friend. Speaking of which, partial proceeds of “Jimmy My Pal” benefit the SPCA, so you can feel comfortable that your enjoyment is going toward a good claws cause.

Gucci helped me write this post for Momo.

Tasting Notes

Opened February 8, 2010. Composed of 40% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Gris and 30% Semillon. Soft, sandy white in colour with peachy tones. White blossoms, stones, white-fleshed fruits and citrus form a subtle and feminine bouquet. A soft, juicy palate of peaches, pear, apple and other round fruits reveals itself in a supple, almost oily way. The only food pairing I could think of when I did open this bottle was Hong Kong-style fruit salad, which is basically a simple fruit salad that may also contain boiled eggs and/or shrimp, and mayonnaise. It still seems like the ideal pairing – I’d eat it. $16