Category Archives: Cabernet Sauvignon

Bottle Maturation

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Sipping on a bottle of properly matured, well cared-for wine is like running into the awkward guy from algebra ten years later at your high school reunion.

He’s turned out to be – hopefully – fleshier and more toned in physique than his younger, gangly self, with a smoother timbre replacing the squawky, pitched stutter of yore. And perhaps his then-clashing talents of number-crunching and collecting 70′s vinyl have evolved into a profitable online music entrepreneurship.

Everything about him is still there, just now in far better shape. It just took several years for that potential to develop into something more.

I’ve got both an Old World and a New World example that I’m excited to share with you:

Château Faizeau Sélection Vielles Vignes AOC Montagne St-Émilion 2006

This wine was released in BC in the fall of 2009. The Montagne Saint-Émilion area is just northeast of the principal Saint-Émilion appellation, and like its namesake, showcases Merlot-based wines, which in this case come from some older vines that have been green-harvested to concentrate flavour development in select bunches that have been left on the vine. From one French website, it appears that “flying winemaker” Michel Rolland seems to have consulted on the wine. The site also notes that the vineyard is made of 12 hectares of clay-limestone and sandy soil, and 50% of the wine was aged in barrel for 18 – 24 months.

Opened on April 16, 2011, thanks to my generous friend (and graphic designer extraordinaire) Lydia. Within an opaque core of blood red lies a soft and seductive nose of black cherry, plums, blackberries, baking spices, cocoa and licorice. The rich, velvety palate is gently concentrated with red and black berry flavours, a hint of herbaceousness, and secondary notes of cinnamon, chocolate, licorice and earth, finishing with refreshing acidity that suggests further aging up to another 5 to 6 years would be fine. Lydia, Natasha and I ate this with Mediterranean cheese and spinach pies, which tasted great – I would also recommend trying this with a piece of good dark chocolate or a meat dish with mole sauce to really play up the voluptuousness of this wine.

Poplar Grove Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley VQA 2005

Sean and I had the fortune to visit with Poplar Grove’s winemaker, Ian Sutherland, two years ago on a holiday in Naramata. There, we got to barrel sample some varietal components of his Bordeaux blend, Legacy, including some Cabernet Franc, and I’m fairly certain it was at that moment that I became a believer in Cabernet Franc’s potential to claim the title of Best Okanagan Black Grape. The barrel samples were intense, concentrated and left us with black teeth for the day – Sean was especially hooked and bought a bottle of the 2005, and we’ve been interested in Cab Francs across BC since.

I visited the winery again this past weekend on the way home from a short road trip through Penticton, and Julie, the lovely lady managing the tasting room that day, mentioned that Poplar Grove uses the help of Bordelais consultant Alain Sutre. Apparently, Sutre’s advice vis à vis Poplar Grove’s Cab Franc is that extra hangtime is allowed for the fruit such that it’s picked within the precise and short timeframe wherein sugar ripening slows down but the rate of phenolic ripeness speeds up, letting the grapes build up extra flavour complexity without the excess of natural sugars.

This funny, adorable border collie belonging to a neighbour of the winery had me working hard for my wine! I must have thrown that grapevine stick 50 times.

Opened on May 7, 2011. Deep purple-black in the glass with some garnet hues along the rim, this wine displays a heady aroma of ripe plums, prunes, blackberry, currants, tobacco, cedar and spice. In the mouth, fine sweet oak tannins combine deliciously with a medium-plus body of ripe cherry, currant, plum, leather, spice, chocolate and licorice flavours and a medium-plus finish. A rewarding wine right now but could certainly hold up for another couple years if not longer.

This still had all the concentrated black fruit flavours and tannin of the original barrel sample, except worn and woven into a much smoother cloth. We sipped happily on this without food, however I would have loved to try this with some grilled rosemary lamb chops or rib eye seared perfectly medium rare. Finishing: 18 months in French oak barrels plus an additional 12 months of bottle maturation prior to release. $35 at the winery (fairly positive it’s now sold out)

Wines to Get You In the Mood

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… for this year’s Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, that is!

The 2011 theme region is Spain, which, if you’re like me and you enjoy high quality wines made in time-honoured, land-respecting methods at attractive prices, you’ll be over the moon for! (There, that was my elevator pitch for wines from Spain. Olé!)

One thing I really enjoy about winemaking in the land of the Pinta, the Niña and the Santa Maria (from the little that I know about Spanish winemaking) is its progressive stance.

Just as much as its great wines, such as Rioja and Sherry, are steeped in tradition, the new and emerging quality winemaking regions of note within this colourful country are embracing of forward-thinking industrial practices (i.e., irrigation, which many EU wine appellations do not allow) and the use of grapes not native to the region.

Here is a tasty pair of Spanish wines I tried recently – I hope they whet your palate for the bevy of bottles that will be showcased on the International Festival Tasting floor, March 30 – April 1!

Tickets for VPIWF are available online or via the phone box office (number is at the link above).

For the first time ever, I’ll be on the exhibitor’s side of the table this year… See you there!

Bodegas Ochoa Rosado de Lágrima Finca El Bosque Navarra DO 2009

50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Garnacha. The region of Navarra is well known for producing rosé wines as well as wines labelled in the modern varietal manner. This wine from Bodegas Ochoa is a single vineyard creation from the winery’s Finca El Bosque plot. It’s named “Rose of Tears” after the saignée method of production, in which the crushed juice is left in contact with the skins for about 12 hours, during which time the colour bleeds out from the grape skins into the liquid that is to be fermented.

Dark salmon in colour verging on pale red, this coral stunner woos the nose with fresh rhubarb, spicy cherry, red currant and pomegranate aromas along with a hint of white pepper and dust. The palate is deliciously dry with some obvious tannins from the Cabernet, ample body and alcohol from the Garnacha – and oodles more red fruit and spice. It’s deceivingly lightweight in the mouth when well chilled – be careful how quick you imbibe! It didn’t take me long to finish my bottle. Get some now while you can; this is an $18 wine that’s currently $12. A fabulous recommendation from a fellow wine geek galpal! I paired this wine with vegan fajitas which worked quite well.

This animal-friendly dinner was brought to you by Tofu Chili, Soy Cheese, Julienned Beets, Bean Sprouts, Pinto Beans & Rice with Roasted Poblano Peppers, this awesome guac / Pico de Gallo mix that I got from IGA, homemade Aji Criollo and steamed authentic 100% Corn Tortillas.

Marqués de Cáceres Rioja Reserva DOC 2004

I haven’t had the fortune to try a lot of Riojas yet, so I was more than happy to take home the 2 – 3 glasses or so that remained of this bottle that was used in an ISG (International Sommelier Guild) training session in my work building!

On Rioja bottles, “Reserva” indicates that the wine has been aged for at least one year in oak and two in bottle prior to release, which by most commercial wine standards is quite a long time. Many say that because of these long aging standards that in Rioja, the producers have taken care of the wine’s maturation / cellaring for you. Personally, I find some Riojas overwhelmingly oaky upon or soon after release; most bottles could stand to benefit from further aging or certainly some time in the decanter.

85% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha Tinta & Graciano. This deep, almost opaque crimson wine has a bloody (and bloody good) viscosity and mouthfeel. The aromas remind you of sweet forest and hearth smells – pinecones, vanilla, coconut, cinnamon and mulled wine come to mind, along with some ripe red fruits like currants, cherries and dried prunes. A rich mouthfeel envelops the palate with lingering spiciness, oak, Persian pomegranate molasses and fine grained tannins that form a fairly long finish. Solid deal at $30. As for a good food pairing, spicy lamb tagine comes to mind, as well as five spice beef. It would also do well with a Chinese braised pork belly recipe called Muy Choy Faa Laam [Ed.: Sorry, I don't know what this is called in English!] or Shanghainese braised pork hock – both dishes evoke a sweet, nutty piquant spice that would taste great with this wine, the tannins in which would also be a fantastic compliment to these fatty cuts of pork.

Quick Sips

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EastDell Estates Black Cab Ontario VQA 2009

Opened on December 29, 2010. A blend of Baco Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. I haven’t had too many good examples of Baco Noir, and this wine basically confirmed that I will probably never be a fan of the grape, which is a hybrid variety.

Most wines you see on store shelves, particularly European wines that only allow specific grapes, are made of vitis vinifera varieties only – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are popular examples.

Today Baco Noir and other hybrid wine grapes (those bred between vitis vinifera and other species; Vidal and Maréchal Foch among the most widely known) are generally grown in North America, where their hardiness copes well with the extreme northern climates and potential vineyard diseases, and local regulations allow for wine to be produced commercially out of these grapes.

It is said that non-vitis vinifera grapes tend to produce wines of a “foxy” aroma and palate, which can be a unique characteristic. Unfortunately, the trait doesn’t appeal to me at all, and is exactly what I detected out of this bottle of EastDell Black Cab.

However, this wine is also quite typical for the varietals and region, with its cool climate greenness on the nose and palate, and so for the sake of education is probably worth a try.

Unavailable in British Columbia, as far as I know, but if you have a friend returning from Ontario, get them to bring a bottle home for you.

Deep ruby purple in the glass, this wine exudes youthful black fruits, berries, currants and red fruits on the nose which is veiled by a slightly musky or skunky tone. The palate is dry, with ample acidity, low tannins and a fairly light body that carries youthful, green flavours of sour cherry, unripe berries, herbs, asparagus and hints of metal and oak that finish short. Drink now and forever hold your peace. $13 in Ontario.

Dirty Laundry “Naughty” Chardonnay BC VQA 2007

I got this a couple of summers ago while driving through Summerland. I recommend visiting the winery if you get a chance, it’s one of the more idyllic cottagey shops in the area and has a nice tasting bar. The people working there are really nice and also have good knowledge of the winery’s history as well as that of the locale.

Rich citrus, ripe apple verging on stone fruit aromas with hints of biscuit combine in the mouth to form a juicy, ripe palate with a clean finish. Easy drinking, approachable Chardonnay with just the slightest touch of oak aging. $25

HenkellSeed

This elegant sparkling cocktail was concocted by me, but derives its crazy moniker from the brain of Sean Minogue.

I served this and the Naughty Chardonnay at a holiday dinner with the family, and was pleasantly surprised at how quaffable the former was as an apéritif.

The recipe is simple, and serves up to 8 per 750 ml bottle (by the way, Henkell Rosé is around $15):

  • In chilled champagne flutes, add half a handful of pomegranate seeds and a slice of ruby grapefruit, lemon or lime. (The lemon lookalike slices you see pictured are actually slices of sweet lime, which I found at Thrifty Foods one day, and yes, walk and talk like a duck, but smell and taste floral and soapy.)
  • (You may choose to add a squirt of simple syrup at this time, but I like my drinks dry.)
  • Top up with chilled Henkell Rosé or any other pink bubbly and serve. You could also use a combination of rosé wine followed by sparkling water but that’s up to you.