Holiday Roundup, Part Two: Fonseca Bin 27

If there were any wine I could drink to get into the spirit (figuratively) of Christmas, I’d have to say Port. With its typically heady nose and warm, spicy dried fruit flavours, who needs mulled wine or hot rum punches? (Although those are nice in their own respect.)

I’d already enjoyed a local version, La Frenz Tawny, at the end of November. A delicious finish wasn’t the only thing lingering on my tastebuds after that bottle was emptied – there was also a burning desire to continue my Port journey!

The world looks pretty nice through a Port-coloured lens.

Fonseca Bin 27 used to be the wine kept privately by the Guimaraens family (who own and run the Fonseca Port house) for personal consumption, released worldwide as a Premium Reserve label in 1972.

If you’re relatively new to Port and want to dabble in a taste of the real stuff, Bin 27 gives a nice general impression of what to expect, while going easy on the pocketbook.

Tasting Notes

Tasted late November – early December 2009. Rich purple-black and nearly opaque in colour. On the nose, dried prunes, raisin, ripe black fruits and a bit of warm spice (clove, cinnamon) emerge. The palate is rich and round, with medium tannins and bunches of sun-ripened blackberries, grapes and sweet dried prunes continuing right through the finish. For an Asian dessert pairing, try red bean-filled glutinous soup dumplings. A nice savoury match, if you chose to go that route, would be sweet teriyaki-braised beef shortribs. $23

Holiday Roundup, Part One: La Frenz Tawny

Lots of wines ahead, so I’m going to post everything separately for easier reading.

La Frenz Tawny NV

Purchased at the winery in July 2009, opened during the week of November 27, 2009.

A fortified wine made in the Port style by a great little winery in Naramata Bench, BC. Sadly, I can’t tell you what varieties are in this, and La Frenz’s website doesn’t disclose anything either.

Sean called it “Christmas in a glass,” and I simply couldn’t disagree.

Wisely, the winery put its address right on the main part of the label (740 Naramata Road, Penticton, BC), in case one needs to go back for more wine. And cheers, by the way, to Mike and Amanda, my friends etched on their wedding wine glass!

Tasting Notes

Deep bricky brown in colour, with aromas of fruitcake, dried dates and some warm spice (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg). A syrupy texture coats the mouth with equally Christmassy flavours but finishes pleasantly dry. $20

I enjoyed this very much on its own, but would certainly have loved an accompaniment of sticky toffee pudding or butter tart with mincemeat.

I’m also going to go out on a limb with my ethnic food suggestion and propose Szechuan honey beef Honey Garlic Beef! (Thanks to Szechuan Chongqing restaurant’s online PDF menu for giving me the translated name! On a side note, in Cantonese this dish is called HAA SEE mutt, and it’s a slightly spicy, honeyed beef served with little white steamed buns.) I think it’d work.

Black Cloud 2006 Pinot Noir

There is something I love but can’t put my finger on about Okanagan Pinot Noir. Because, when you really think about it, the Okanagan can be subdivided into several fairly different and diverse micro-climates: The shortchanged-on-daylight slopes of Summerland, sunny Naramata on the other side of the valley, and dry-as-British-humour Osoyoos down South, but to name a few.

So how is it that all Okanagan Pinot Noirs appeal to me in the same general way?

After all, if terroir has anything to do with the lovely Okanagan wines I’m drinking, they must all somehow each exude their own unique properties. Yet, puzzlingly, I seem to consistently taste more complexity in Pinot Noir wines from the Okanagan than I do of most other red varietals grown in this area – namely, the Cabernets and Merlots that seem to be chiselled into the woody badasses and warm fruit bombs, respectively, that I keep coming across.

Vive la différence, I say!

Maybe I simply haven’t tried enough Pinots, or perhaps it’s just that I don’t know enough about the varietal or local viticulture practices to justify my yen for yumminess. Of course, it could just be sheer kismet that Pinot Noir grows quite well in my beautiful province; frankly, I don’t know.

What I do know, however, is that I can definitely chalk up another victory to Okanagan Pinot Noir, thanks to this bottle of Black Cloud 2006 Pinot Noir I’m enjoying tonight!

(The grapes in this bottle were grown in Okanagan Falls, another interesting part of the Okanagan Valley. Did you know there are no actual waterfalls in this eponymous region?)

Look at the beautiful legs on this puppy.

Check out the beautiful legs on this puppy.

Here’s a tasty experiment for you: Have you ever smelled or eaten Morbier cheese? It’s a semi-soft, ashy AOC (controlled origin) cheese from France that smells a bit like, well, ash, as well as salt and umami. Morbier is easily recognized by its middle stripe, like someone decided to draw across its length with pencil. Anyway, go visit your local cheesemonger, smell a hunk of Morbier and remember that scent. Now pour yourself a glass of Black Cloud Pinot Noir, sniff it, and tell me that does not at all smell similar to Morbier. Ah, I knew you were a liar.

Tasty Experiment #2: Get yourself some of the aforementioned Morbier, some fatty, moist prosciutto and dried Morello cherries. Now wrap a small wedge of Morbier and a dried cherry with a slice of prosciutto. Pair with Black Cloud Pinot, duck breast, a date or your significant other and a sexy DVD. You won’t be disappointed.

Tasting Notes

Mostly mahogany in colour with flecks of deep crimson. The mature colour makes me think that this should peak either now or quite soon. As I ended up waxing poetically above, the nose begins in a rather earthy, savoury, ashy fashion – think Morbier and Reishi mushrooms (ganoderma lucidum) – followed by aromas of ripe cherries and strawberries. A slightly spicy, tamari sauce character permeates the cherry / berry palate with silky tannins, medium body and kind of bloody (but in a good way!) finish. Try the above appetizer as a food pairing, or venture into more exotic territory by serving this with Chinese five-spice beef shank (ng heung ngau yuk). It’s a cold cut normally served at the beginning of a Chinese banquet, in the same platter as the jellyfish and roast suckling pig. $25

Note: The 2006 vintage is Black Cloud Winery’s first bottling, and I certainly hope there are many more to come. Check out the links below for more reviews!

Links

Black Cloud Winery

Bradley Cooper – winemaker for Black Cloud and Township 7

Other Reviews

Full Bodied: Vancouver Food, Wine and Cleavage

Vinifico! The Original Vancouver Wine Blog

Wine Bard: Confessions of an Oenophile

Between the Vines