Wicked Gamay

Reader Warning! This blog post is rated S as it contains content of a smooth, sensual, slightly sassy and Chris Isaak nature. Palate discretion is always advised.

With apologies to Mr. Isaak, the crooner himself:

What a wicked Gamay you play
To make me feel this way
What a wicked thing to do
To let me dream of you
What a wicked thing to say
You never felt this way
What a wicked thing to do
To make me dream of you
And I don’t wanna fall in love
(This Saint-Amour is only gonna break your heart)
And I don’t want to fall in love
(This Saint-Amour is only gonna break your heart)

Mmmm… This wine I’m enjoying tonight is arguably as sexy as this song’s music video.

Saint-Amour… Ahh, the eponymous wine of love. This small, obscure Cru (classified) appellation is in the northernmost part of Beaujolais, which itself is technically part of the Burgundy region of France. Like its bigger sisters, Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages (and let’s not forget France’s illegitimate love child, Beaujolais Nouveau), Saint-Amour wines are made of 100% Gamay.

Gamay (rhymes with gold lamé, a very sexy fabric) reigns supreme in this part of the world (Beaujolais and parts of the Loire Valley), and found only in trace amounts elsewhere – Canada is in fact one of the only other major locations where Gamay is used in commercial winemaking.

What else is sexy about this wine? Okay, how about the kick-ass 2009 vintage. It was one of the best years for winemakers in France in recent history – perfect weather conditions during the growing season and at the time of harvest helped render these grapes into vinous va-va-voom.

Henry Fessy Saint-Amour 2009

Owned by Maison Louis Latour, the house with the most Burgundy Grand Cru acreage in the world, Henry Fessy’s Saint-Amour land totals 1 hectare.

She is a trendsetter with her iconic orange neckwear. Even the label, her shirt, is looking sultry as it peels off the chilled, condensation-coated bottle, seductively. And a moustache logo to boot? Win, win and win.

Brilliant ruby in colour, this wine exudes a gentle nose of raspberries, red plums, blueberries, mineral and a hint of violets. The palate is juicy yet delicate, with incredibly silky texture, a fairly light to medium body, low tannin and an intriguingly un-intense but persistent finish – like the time your romantic date with The One ended exactly the way you wanted. Oh, you know what I mean. Hey, this wine made me blush too.

Pair this elegant beauty with silk pajamas; or better yet, creamy moussaka, baba ghanouj, rare lamb chops, skin-on grilled chicken thighs (skin is sexy, my friends), rabbit or duck breast. I enjoyed it immensely slightly chilled, and I hope you will too.

$25 in BC Liquor Stores. Recently rated 92 points by Wine Enthusiast.

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Yuletide Tipples

How quickly have the holidays crept up on you this year?

For me, 2010 is wrapping up (and unwrapping) way too fast! Summer seems like just yesterday, and I’ve barely had enough time to document all the bottles and glasses that have crossed my palate since (and I apologize).

However, I do have some interesting and awesome news to report:

1) I completed my WSET Level III Advanced course!

Last week, I wrote my final exam, which consisted of 50 multiple choice questions, 5 short answer/mini-essay sections and two blind tastings.

This course is largely why I have absent from the blog in the past month and a half, but it is my hope that future posts will be much better and more enlightening because of it! I feel very positive that I achieved a high score, so I am eager to find out and share my final marks with you. Here’s to a Pass with Distinction!

2) I am going to Boston Wine Expo 2011 in January!

It’s been a while since I last travelled, and I definitely wanted to visit somewhere new that just happened to feature vinous excitement in the dead of winter.

Fortunately, Boston is one such place! At the Expo, I’ll be at the trade tastings, and I’ve signed up for a Maison Drouhin tasting featuring Premier & Grand Cru wines from Burgundy, a Ribera del Duero seminar and a vertical tasting of Champagne Ruinart.

Needless to say, I’ve also been researching Boston dining and plan to eat my way through the city, so I’m very excited and can’t wait for my trip – please stay tuned for upcoming posts about my Bostonian adventures in food and wine!

I leave you temporarily with a couple of lip-smackingly tasty libations and one mulled wine recipe below, because of course, no Christmas season is worth toasting without having something yummy to toast with!

Until the next post, I hope you all enjoy a safe and happy holiday, and wish you all the best in 2011!

- Debbie

P.S. Suggestions on fun and interesting sights and flavours in Boston cheerily accepted in the Comments section!

Arran Amarone Cask Finish Single Malt Whisky

From the Isle of Arran’s only malt whisky distillery comes this unique Amarone-cask finished single malt, featuring single malt whisky of at least 8 years old that is matured for a further 8 months in a used Amarone cask.

Exhibiting a nose of dark chocolate, dusty wood and dried fruits (not to mention notes of classic Amarone’s passito-dried grapes), this copper beauty with rosy highlights is delicate on the palate, with mild notes of cherry, fragrant wood, spice, cocoa and dried fruit, finishing long with a dryness that hints at its tannin-soaked wood finish. I’m thinking this would be a spirited (!) food pairing with spicy/nutty dishes featuring raisins or other dried fruit, like Moroccan lamb tagine or Lebanese rice pilaf? Also sure to be wonderful after dinner with a wafer of very dark or bittersweet chocolate. $85

Pinhal da Torre Vinha do Alqueve 2006

I’m starting to discover the light wines of Portugal, a country that, like Spain, is represented on Canadian liquor store shelves with bottles of amazing value for their complexity and drinkability.

Vinha do Alqueve is the mainstream regional red blend of Pinhal da Torre, a winery from the Ribatejo province (now known as Tejo, Portuguese for the River Tagus, since 2009). For this blend, varietal wines made from indigenous grapes Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca plus Cabernet Sauvignon and Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo) are vinified separately and then blended and aged in barrel, following a traditional Bordeaux method of production.

This is an inky, purplish black wine with a soft but complex nose of black and red fruits, tar, fall leaves, herbs, oak and earth. The palate is a plush, thick array of soft black and red fruit flavours with a nice savoury, foresty layer – a deliciously easy-drinking combination. Try this with boiled beef brisket or tongue with a crusty loaf of bread and spreads like aioli, grainy mustard, horseradish and/or pistou on the side. A terrific value at $12.

Chef Debbie Presents: Glöggignon Blanc

This is a really simple white mulled wine recipe that has all the flavour of regular Glühwein without the embarrassing maroon stains that those who love a good mulled wine are likely to incur. I eyeballed a batch this week for a work potluck, and it turned out so well that I figured I may as well record the recipe and share it with you all!

Ingredients (Serves 10 – 12; double the recipe and make it in a stockpot over the stove for a bigger batch)

  • 1.5 L dry white wine (I used Sonora Ranch Sauvignon Blanc)
  • 750 ml water
  • 3 – 5 oz. spirit of your choice (brandy, rum or vodka work well; I used my cardamom and cinnamon-infused vodka from this post! Or just add Christmas cheer for a subdued, less punchy version)
  • 1 large orange
  • 1 lemon
  • 3 slices of ginger root, peeled
  • 20 – 25 cloves
  • 3 cinnamon sticks
  • pinch ground nutmeg
  • 3 star anise (I didn’t have this on hand for my initial batch, but it would be an excellent addition)
  • 10 pink or white peppercorns
  • Honey or syrup to taste (I used golden cane syrup)

Directions

  1. Into a slow cooker (turned off) or stockpot, add your wine, water and liquor.
  2. Using a vegetable peeler, peel the zest off the orange and lemon into strips. Add to pot. Slice orange and lemon crosswise into thin slices and then in half again to make small half-moons. Add to pot.
  3. Add ginger, cloves, cinnamon sticks, nutmeg, star anise and peppercorn to pot.
  4. Set slow cooker to its Low setting or your stockpot over medium-low heat until the mixture just reaches a slow simmer. Let brew for at least 3 – 4 hours, stirring in honey or syrup to taste just before serving in heat-proof (not plastic) cups. Enjoy!

Georges Duboeuf Flower Label Macon-Villages 2005

We interrupt this run of 2009 holiday wine summaries with a look at tonight’s dinner wine, a 2005 Mâcon-Villages from Georges Duboeuf’s instantly recognizable Flower Label line. (I like to think of Duboeuf’s flower labels as the wine world’s answer to Royal Albert teacups.)

Ever the studious imbiber, there I am taking notes at the dinner table. Hey, it's the Mike and Amanda wedding glasses again!

Mâconnais is a sub-appellation within France’s Burgundy region, in the larger, lower banana-shaped part of the area, Mâcon being its main city on the eastern edge. (Burgundy, like Earth, has a tiny satellite belonging to it – in this case Chablis, the famous dry white wine area slightly northwest of the rest of Burgundy. Check out this handy map.)

Mâcon-Villages simply refers to a wine made of grapes picked throughout the various villages in and around Mâcon, and is 100% Chardonnay by regulation.

I’d never tried a Mâconnais wine before, but as a relative newbie to the appellation and Burgundy in general (hey, better late than never, right?), I feel that this is a fair example of an affordable, true to its origin, entry-level Burgundy dry white.

Tasting Notes

Speaking of bananas, this wine has the colour of a neon-bright banana. Truly yellow in colour, this wine exudes aromas of crisp fruit and mineral with notes of citrus, some apple, and a bit of steel and chalkiness. It’s not too acidic, with medium body and balanced citrus, pear and apple flavours on the palate, again with some mineral qualities on the tongue and in the finish. This wine did not receive any oak treatment. A decent, fruity Chardonnay to enjoy with simple boiled corn, zucchini sticks or pan-fried halibut. Or for the globe-trotting gourmand, edamame or a scallop and snow pea stir-fry may also be good matches. $20