Wines to Get You In the Mood

… for this year’s Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, that is!

The 2011 theme region is Spain, which, if you’re like me and you enjoy high quality wines made in time-honoured, land-respecting methods at attractive prices, you’ll be over the moon for! (There, that was my elevator pitch for wines from Spain. Olé!)

One thing I really enjoy about winemaking in the land of the Pinta, the Niña and the Santa Maria (from the little that I know about Spanish winemaking) is its progressive stance.

Just as much as its great wines, such as Rioja and Sherry, are steeped in tradition, the new and emerging quality winemaking regions of note within this colourful country are embracing of forward-thinking industrial practices (i.e., irrigation, which many EU wine appellations do not allow) and the use of grapes not native to the region.

Here is a tasty pair of Spanish wines I tried recently – I hope they whet your palate for the bevy of bottles that will be showcased on the International Festival Tasting floor, March 30 – April 1!

Tickets for VPIWF are available online or via the phone box office (number is at the link above).

For the first time ever, I’ll be on the exhibitor’s side of the table this year… See you there!

Bodegas Ochoa Rosado de Lágrima Finca El Bosque Navarra DO 2009

50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Garnacha. The region of Navarra is well known for producing rosé wines as well as wines labelled in the modern varietal manner. This wine from Bodegas Ochoa is a single vineyard creation from the winery’s Finca El Bosque plot. It’s named “Rose of Tears” after the saignée method of production, in which the crushed juice is left in contact with the skins for about 12 hours, during which time the colour bleeds out from the grape skins into the liquid that is to be fermented.

Dark salmon in colour verging on pale red, this coral stunner woos the nose with fresh rhubarb, spicy cherry, red currant and pomegranate aromas along with a hint of white pepper and dust. The palate is deliciously dry with some obvious tannins from the Cabernet, ample body and alcohol from the Garnacha – and oodles more red fruit and spice. It’s deceivingly lightweight in the mouth when well chilled – be careful how quick you imbibe! It didn’t take me long to finish my bottle. Get some now while you can; this is an $18 wine that’s currently $12. A fabulous recommendation from a fellow wine geek galpal! I paired this wine with vegan fajitas which worked quite well.

This animal-friendly dinner was brought to you by Tofu Chili, Soy Cheese, Julienned Beets, Bean Sprouts, Pinto Beans & Rice with Roasted Poblano Peppers, this awesome guac / Pico de Gallo mix that I got from IGA, homemade Aji Criollo and steamed authentic 100% Corn Tortillas.

Marqués de Cáceres Rioja Reserva DOC 2004

I haven’t had the fortune to try a lot of Riojas yet, so I was more than happy to take home the 2 – 3 glasses or so that remained of this bottle that was used in an ISG (International Sommelier Guild) training session in my work building!

On Rioja bottles, “Reserva” indicates that the wine has been aged for at least one year in oak and two in bottle prior to release, which by most commercial wine standards is quite a long time. Many say that because of these long aging standards that in Rioja, the producers have taken care of the wine’s maturation / cellaring for you. Personally, I find some Riojas overwhelmingly oaky upon or soon after release; most bottles could stand to benefit from further aging or certainly some time in the decanter.

85% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha Tinta & Graciano. This deep, almost opaque crimson wine has a bloody (and bloody good) viscosity and mouthfeel. The aromas remind you of sweet forest and hearth smells – pinecones, vanilla, coconut, cinnamon and mulled wine come to mind, along with some ripe red fruits like currants, cherries and dried prunes. A rich mouthfeel envelops the palate with lingering spiciness, oak, Persian pomegranate molasses and fine grained tannins that form a fairly long finish. Solid deal at $30. As for a good food pairing, spicy lamb tagine comes to mind, as well as five spice beef. It would also do well with a Chinese braised pork belly recipe called Muy Choy Faa Laam [Ed.: Sorry, I don't know what this is called in English!] or Shanghainese braised pork hock – both dishes evoke a sweet, nutty piquant spice that would taste great with this wine, the tannins in which would also be a fantastic compliment to these fatty cuts of pork.

One Week in Beantown

I’m veering a bit off the wine blog route tonight to share my Boston experience with you.

How did Veni Vini Vici arrive in Boston, might one ask? In short, I was looking for a wine-related trip, and I only had one week off, so I didn’t want to travel so far that transit would take up half my vacation. As it turned out, Boston Wine Expo was happening January 22-23 and was purported to be America’s largest wine festival – so I put two and two together and figured a voyage to the land of America’s founding fathers was in order!

From the lovely people to the delicious wine and food, Boston was everything I was looking for in a cosmopolitan winter vacation: Warm hospitality, a fantastic dining scene, wonderful new wine experiences, local and international culture by the truckload, and of course, the requisite piles and piles of New England seafood.

I’m so glad I visited and can’t wait until my next Baahston adventchah!

Here are some of my favourite highlights from my trip in pictures.

Imagine waking up every day across the street from this fabulous view! This is Boston's Old South Church on Boylston Street. I stayed at the very posh and comfortable Lenox Hotel. (I splurged for a nice place, but you know what? It was totally worth it.)

A most amazing grilled banana and honey sandwich on pain de mie with cinnamon butter. How I, the die-hard savoury tooth, came to order this for breakfast is a long and hilarious story, but suffice it to say, Mike and Patty's, the place where I ate this, was where I ate the best food and met the best people all week. If I could FedEx myself a breakfast from them, I would. (www.mikeandpattys.com)

WARNING: Sensory overload!! Yes, you are looking at a glass of Domaine Joseph Drouhin Clos des Mouches Blanc Premier Cru 2006. Heady, honeyed, citrusy, nutty and truffly all at once, this was a fantastic wine. This was wine no. 4 in a flight of eight delicious 2006 Burgundies which I admit, took me lots of effort to savour the morning after spending 12 hours in transit!.

The wines of the Drouhin seminar (hosted by Laurent Drouhin):

  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Chablis “Les Clos” Grand Cru 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet Folatières Premier Cru 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche Premier Cru 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Premier Cru 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny “Les Amoureuses” Premier Cru 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Musigny Grand Cru 2006

I love Loire Valley, part one. A creamy, long, intense and indulgent Vouvray.

I love Loire Valley, part two. This was my first time trying red Sancerre (read: Pinot Noir). So characterful with lots of savoury herbal notes, earth and mineral. Whoever Lucien Crochet is swept me off my feet.

Hedonistic Reason #1 Why I Love Boston: The flat-out obnoxious amounts of fresh seafood you can get away with eating almost year-round. Case in point: This chunky lobster roll that I devoured at the Barking Crab restaurant in Fort Point. (Note: For perspective, this sandwich - looking down from above - is about the size of my face.)

I was really impressed by the amount of amazing Italian wineries showcasing their goods at Boston Wine Expo. Here are some of the producers I majorly geeked out on:

Ghiomo, Piemonte (http://www.ghiomo.it/en/)

Bosco Societa Cooperative Agricola, Puglia (Primitivo di Manduria DOC, Salento IGT)

This was my first time trying a Conero Rosso, after having read about the Marches in Lawrence Osborne's "The Accidental Connoiseur" and it was everything I thought it would be! Foresty, piney, stony, yet redolent of berries and peppery fruit... Yum.

Bricco Maiolica's Vigna Vigia is a vineyard named after the winemaker's great-grandmother Luigia. It is planted to Barbera and is made into a tasty, tasty single vineyard Barbera d'Alba.

Don't be fooled by the standard catering wine glasses, this is premium bubbly! This is the flight I tasted at the seminar by Champagne Ruinart, one of the oldest Champagne houses in France. (FYI - their house style is based on expressions of Chardonnay aka Blanc de Blancs.)

The wines in my Champagne Ruinart seminar:

  • Domaine Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV
  • Domaine Ruinart 1998 Blanc de Blancs
  • Domaine Ruinart 1993 Blanc de Blancs
  • Domaine Ruinart Brut Rosé NV
  • Domaine Ruinart 1996 Brut Rosé
  • Domaine Ruinart 1988 Brut Rosé

I'm a spoiled brat, because the first Ribera del Duero wine I'd ever tried was Vega Sicilia Alión 2004. (Ed.: Thanks Shea for the correction!) But I attended this Ribera del Duero seminar to learn more about the region, and it was great. I discovered great Tempranillos (locally called Tinto del Paìs) that were delicious in their youth as well as some moderately aged wines that showed lots of arid Ribera character. Here's two out of the 15 or so that I tried.

I think the best wines I tried all week were Italian wines. This is La Spinetta Ca' Di Pian Barbera d'Alba 2006, a powerful yet elegant and modern example of Barbera. So intensely perfumed with great integration of fruit and oak, this was a delight to drink and I only wish I could have more. (I purchased a half bottle at Papa Razzi, a mid-range trattoria on Newbury Street that even let me take my unfinished bottle home plugged up in a sealed plastic bag.) Vancouver totally needs more inexpensive-with-great-wine-list, unpretentious, no-fuss establishments like these. I walked in from the blistery cold looking like a homeless woolly mammoth, hungry and tired, and still received top-notch service from a girl named Alexa. Paired perfectly with my roasted eggplant, tomato, cheese and basil pasta.

Both the bronze frog at Boston Common and I are wondering, "Why are we outdoors when even an OUTDOOR skating rink has to close due to the cold?" (Temperatures reached at least -22ºC that day)

Some guy at the New England Aquarium remarked to his date that this was "the Bob Marley of jellyfish". It was all I could do not to burst out into laughter. The guy was totally right!

Yes, I completely realize how ironic and hypocritical it is to eat seafood on the same day that one visits an aquarium. But these bivalves were so tasty! Meaty cherrystone clams (about the size of a baby's palm, for perspective) and local New England oysters on the halfshell at Union Oyster House, the oldest restaurant in the US of A.

Best $12 I spent in Boston all week. Fenway Park gives hourly tours, and I had the privilege of being guided by Steve, a 79-year old who lived and breathed for baseball, Red Sox baseball to be exact.

Me at Fenway Park, home of the Boston Red Sox

Boston's North End neighbourhood is an Italian-American borough home to narrow alleys lined with brownstones, brick roads, and authentic Italian eateries. Mike's Pastry was just one of these places, and holy cannoli, were the pastries ever good! This Ricotta-filled, chocolate dipped cannoli was one of about 30 different kinds of cannoli available. Had I been feeling more gluttonous I would have eaten more... So much more.

Neptune Oyster was one of the first places I had found when researching for my Boston trip. It only seats about 50 people and is packed nearly every night, I'm told. I was lucky enough to get a seat at the bar when I entered, and no sooner had I sat down, there was already a lineup of waiting patrons out the door. This is a haven for local East Coast seafood, and while perpetually busy, it's well orchestrated and my server never forgot about me. I tried several New England oysters, including Island Creek, Mashpee and more Cherrystone clams, all of which I now pine for. Until my next visit...

I felt very American watching Obama's State of the Union address from my hotel room in Boston! Although I did inject a European sensibility with my half-bottle of Macon-Villages and tiny disc of creamy Vermont triple cream Champlain cheese.

Mike and Patty's, 12 Church Street, Boston, MA 02116. Do not miss this place if you visit! Terrific staff (Mike. the owner, is Canadian!) and incredible food. If I had the time and budget, I would totally visit Boston again just to try the rest of the menu.

I spent a whole day at the Bostom Museum of Fine Arts, but the art is so amazing that I have to recommend you visit there yourself. My pictures don’t do the art justice at all.

America loves its Dunkin' Donuts! It's what Tim Horton's is to Canada. Here's a crazy midday lineup inside the subway stop at Harvard.

Standing in the middle of Harvard Yard ('Hahvaad Yaaad,' so the cliché goes). I feel smarter already. (Or is it 'smaataa'?)

Just one specimen of the innumerable minerals on display at the Harvard Museum of Natural History. If I weren't so busy geeking out on wines in my everyday life, I'd definitely be geeking out on rocks. I was the girl in elementary school who dreamt of being a geologist when everyone else wanted to be a horse wrangler or a marine biologist.

Fortuitously, I chanced upon Julianne Moore's photo op at Harvard, as she received her Hasty Pudding "Woman of the Year" award from the university's acting troupe! (Fargo reference: She's a real super lady.)

It seemed ludicrous to end a trip to Boston without having steamed lobster. I'm so glad I found Jasper White's Summer Shack in Boston's Back Bay neighbourhood, about 2 blocks away from Berkelee College of Music! My epic "Last Supper" in Boston consisted of Summerside and Blue Point oysters on the halfshell, fried Ipswich clams, and a modest 1 lb. steamed lobster with melted butter dip and corn on the cob. If that's not satisfaction, I don't know what is.

I even had a little taste of Boston (well, technically California, but I digress) to bring home! Since I stayed a week at Lenox Hotel, they gave me a bottle of wine. (Did I mention their excellent service?) While this wasn't New England wine, this organic bottle still fit in with Lenox Hotel's eco-friendly principles, and for that I appreciate my stay there even more. (They even had garbage cans in each room with dividers for glass, plastic, paper and waste!)

Cheers, Boston – I’ll definitely be back for more!

Quick Sips

EastDell Estates Black Cab Ontario VQA 2009

Opened on December 29, 2010. A blend of Baco Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. I haven’t had too many good examples of Baco Noir, and this wine basically confirmed that I will probably never be a fan of the grape, which is a hybrid variety.

Most wines you see on store shelves, particularly European wines that only allow specific grapes, are made of vitis vinifera varieties only – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are popular examples.

Today Baco Noir and other hybrid wine grapes (those bred between vitis vinifera and other species; Vidal and Maréchal Foch among the most widely known) are generally grown in North America, where their hardiness copes well with the extreme northern climates and potential vineyard diseases, and local regulations allow for wine to be produced commercially out of these grapes.

It is said that non-vitis vinifera grapes tend to produce wines of a “foxy” aroma and palate, which can be a unique characteristic. Unfortunately, the trait doesn’t appeal to me at all, and is exactly what I detected out of this bottle of EastDell Black Cab.

However, this wine is also quite typical for the varietals and region, with its cool climate greenness on the nose and palate, and so for the sake of education is probably worth a try.

Unavailable in British Columbia, as far as I know, but if you have a friend returning from Ontario, get them to bring a bottle home for you.

Deep ruby purple in the glass, this wine exudes youthful black fruits, berries, currants and red fruits on the nose which is veiled by a slightly musky or skunky tone. The palate is dry, with ample acidity, low tannins and a fairly light body that carries youthful, green flavours of sour cherry, unripe berries, herbs, asparagus and hints of metal and oak that finish short. Drink now and forever hold your peace. $13 in Ontario.

Dirty Laundry “Naughty” Chardonnay BC VQA 2007

I got this a couple of summers ago while driving through Summerland. I recommend visiting the winery if you get a chance, it’s one of the more idyllic cottagey shops in the area and has a nice tasting bar. The people working there are really nice and also have good knowledge of the winery’s history as well as that of the locale.

Rich citrus, ripe apple verging on stone fruit aromas with hints of biscuit combine in the mouth to form a juicy, ripe palate with a clean finish. Easy drinking, approachable Chardonnay with just the slightest touch of oak aging. $25

HenkellSeed

This elegant sparkling cocktail was concocted by me, but derives its crazy moniker from the brain of Sean Minogue.

I served this and the Naughty Chardonnay at a holiday dinner with the family, and was pleasantly surprised at how quaffable the former was as an apéritif.

The recipe is simple, and serves up to 8 per 750 ml bottle (by the way, Henkell Rosé is around $15):

  • In chilled champagne flutes, add half a handful of pomegranate seeds and a slice of ruby grapefruit, lemon or lime. (The lemon lookalike slices you see pictured are actually slices of sweet lime, which I found at Thrifty Foods one day, and yes, walk and talk like a duck, but smell and taste floral and soapy.)
  • (You may choose to add a squirt of simple syrup at this time, but I like my drinks dry.)
  • Top up with chilled Henkell Rosé or any other pink bubbly and serve. You could also use a combination of rosé wine followed by sparkling water but that’s up to you.