Wicked Gamay

Reader Warning! This blog post is rated S as it contains content of a smooth, sensual, slightly sassy and Chris Isaak nature. Palate discretion is always advised.

With apologies to Mr. Isaak, the crooner himself:

What a wicked Gamay you play
To make me feel this way
What a wicked thing to do
To let me dream of you
What a wicked thing to say
You never felt this way
What a wicked thing to do
To make me dream of you
And I don’t wanna fall in love
(This Saint-Amour is only gonna break your heart)
And I don’t want to fall in love
(This Saint-Amour is only gonna break your heart)

Mmmm… This wine I’m enjoying tonight is arguably as sexy as this song’s music video.

Saint-Amour… Ahh, the eponymous wine of love. This small, obscure Cru (classified) appellation is in the northernmost part of Beaujolais, which itself is technically part of the Burgundy region of France. Like its bigger sisters, Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages (and let’s not forget France’s illegitimate love child, Beaujolais Nouveau), Saint-Amour wines are made of 100% Gamay.

Gamay (rhymes with gold lamé, a very sexy fabric) reigns supreme in this part of the world (Beaujolais and parts of the Loire Valley), and found only in trace amounts elsewhere – Canada is in fact one of the only other major locations where Gamay is used in commercial winemaking.

What else is sexy about this wine? Okay, how about the kick-ass 2009 vintage. It was one of the best years for winemakers in France in recent history – perfect weather conditions during the growing season and at the time of harvest helped render these grapes into vinous va-va-voom.

Henry Fessy Saint-Amour 2009

Owned by Maison Louis Latour, the house with the most Burgundy Grand Cru acreage in the world, Henry Fessy’s Saint-Amour land totals 1 hectare.

She is a trendsetter with her iconic orange neckwear. Even the label, her shirt, is looking sultry as it peels off the chilled, condensation-coated bottle, seductively. And a moustache logo to boot? Win, win and win.

Brilliant ruby in colour, this wine exudes a gentle nose of raspberries, red plums, blueberries, mineral and a hint of violets. The palate is juicy yet delicate, with incredibly silky texture, a fairly light to medium body, low tannin and an intriguingly un-intense but persistent finish – like the time your romantic date with The One ended exactly the way you wanted. Oh, you know what I mean. Hey, this wine made me blush too.

Pair this elegant beauty with silk pajamas; or better yet, creamy moussaka, baba ghanouj, rare lamb chops, skin-on grilled chicken thighs (skin is sexy, my friends), rabbit or duck breast. I enjoyed it immensely slightly chilled, and I hope you will too.

$25 in BC Liquor Stores. Recently rated 92 points by Wine Enthusiast.

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Swallowtail

I’m veering off the wine path slightly today to feature my thoughts (and photos) on a recent, thoroughly enjoyed meal.

Friday night I visited Swallowtail – an “underground” supper club in Vancouver – headed by Chef Robin, a local food and foraging tour guide, for a dinner featuring wild foods from as close to home as it gets these days.

Chefs Robin and Helen did an amazing job of sourcing and preparing fresh, succulent ingredients for a sumptuous meal that went excellently with the wines my friends and I brought, accentuated all the more by the brilliant evening sun.

At the low cost of just $30 plus $7 for dessert and gratuity on top (think $45 in total – note no corking fee!), Swallowtail was a terrific alternative to restaurant dining.

Chef Robin also offers food tours such as herb walks and mushrooming tours – the latter of which I’ll most definitely sign up for one of these days!

Here are some photos I took of the food, which I’ll let speak for itself. Meanwhile, check out this photo of me on Swallowtail’s blog – my group was the first outdoor meal of 2010!

Dinner at Swallowtail – June 25, 2010

Amuse-bouche: Swimming sea scallops fresh from Granville Island, cooked in lemon, salt & pepper. I love scallops with the coral (orangey ruffled fatty part) intact! Paired really nicely with the Pfaffenheim Gewurztraminer that Kylie and Mike brought.

Soup course: Heirloom tomato gazpacho topped with pecorino romano, served with home-baked organic herbed bread.

Salad course: Arugula salad with wild strawberries, roasted hazelnuts and Farmhouse cheese from Agassiz, dressed in hazelnut oil vinaigrette

Entree: Smoked duck with roasted fennel & scallon garnish, burning cinnamon stick, stewed rhubarb, radicchio marmalade and parsnip puree. Absolutely the most succulent, tender duck I have ever eaten in my life. Apparently it's from North Vancouver! Perfectly paired with Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery Fats Johnson Pinot Noir. The smokiness and spice of the duck could probably also have handled a richer, spicier New World Pinot, or even a peppery Syrah.

Here's us happy eaters! Our group of 20 took up both tables seen in the photo. I am in the foreground, front left, sitting next to Mike and Kylie, as well Lawrence and Alice across from me - Lawrence taught me the esteemed Asian skill of Mahjong some 9 years ago. Thanks Brenda for organizing!

How could I possibly turn down dessert? Here was a decadent, fluffy wild strawberry shortcake dressed with whipped cream and house-made lavender ice cream on the side. In other words, How To Get Past Third Base.

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Holiday Roundup, Part Three: Christmas Extragavanza

My family is pretty unorthodox when it comes to cooking for special occasions. I suppose we’re fairly unorthodox by default, since we don’t observe any religious dates anyway, but suffice it to say we never pass up a good holiday meal. If it’s on the calendar, why not?

Typically, we forgo the traditional turkey or ham and opt for maximum indulgence instead, such as T-bone steaks, duck, or tenderloin. This year, my mother showed an unprecendented amount of frivolity and decided to make a gigantic five-pound lobster our Christmas dinner centerpiece. I, in turn, volunteered several tasty bottles from my collection.

Unfortunately, this post is not accompanied by any photography, as we ate on December 22nd, and I didn’t know about or open my digital camera gift from Sean until Christmas Day. Needless to say, I was in no condition to take a clear photograph that evening anyhow.

The Menu

  • Pan-Seared Diver Scallops with Kale and Dragonfruit
  • Roast Chicken with Savoury Pumpkin and Apple Stuffing
  • Baked Lobster with Bacon and Herb Cream Sauce

The Wines

My white and red were pretty much served back to back, and I had the chance to try both the chicken and lobster with each of the wines. I decanted the Bordeaux for two hours prior to serving. The late harvest was served following the meal with chocolates, when my huge, rich dinner caught up with me and I fell asleep watching The Usual Suspects, glass (empty, of course) in hand.

Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris 2007

I first tasted this in November 2008, when it initially hit the market. It was very fresh and fruity then, and I can’t say it’s changed too much since.

Light greenish lemon in colour. A lively nose of core fruits and a bit of starfruit with a zippy but juicy palate of apples, melon and pears and a tiny bit of minerality. No oak influence in this light-bodied patio sipper. I think I would have been happier with a Chardonnay pairing with regard to the chicken and lobster courses, but this went very well with the scallops. $20

Château Rozier St. Émilion 2005

Took a chance here by opening one of my 2005 vintage buys for the first time ever, suggested by my colleague out of the list of Bordeauxs I showed her. Good value in this lower-end St. Émilion. I had first tried this in September 2008 at a tasting; it’s since subdued in all the right places. My mom’s dining room was a bit too cold for the wine, however, and it tasted probably a bit more closed than it should have.

Darkly purple, almost opaque in colour. Plummy black fruits with some oak and spice on the nose. Rich, velvety tannins coat the mouth along with more black fruits on the palate and some vanilla. A predominance of woody oak flavours suggests that this medium-bodied, Merlot-based red still needs more time before opening. Luckily, I still have another bottle waiting for me; I’ll keep cellaring that one for another year or two yet. $29

Hillside Estate Late Harvest Kerner 2007

This was a purchase from the winery during my Okanagan road trip last July. The winery has a fantastic tasting room where a few bucks gets you a handful of samples and possibly a couple of bonus wines like I did. Hillside Estate produces a lot of varietals, so it’s well worth tasting your way through their portfolio!

Light gold in colour. The nose was a heady bouquet of citrus and sweet flowers with hints of tropical fruit, honeyed but not at all syrupy or like icewine. Medium- to light-bodied, this shows lots of citrus and crisp acidity on the palate with apricot and other stone fruit flavours, with quite a refreshing finish for a sweet wine. $20