Wicked Gamay

Reader Warning! This blog post is rated S as it contains content of a smooth, sensual, slightly sassy and Chris Isaak nature. Palate discretion is always advised.

With apologies to Mr. Isaak, the crooner himself:

What a wicked Gamay you play
To make me feel this way
What a wicked thing to do
To let me dream of you
What a wicked thing to say
You never felt this way
What a wicked thing to do
To make me dream of you
And I don’t wanna fall in love
(This Saint-Amour is only gonna break your heart)
And I don’t want to fall in love
(This Saint-Amour is only gonna break your heart)

Mmmm… This wine I’m enjoying tonight is arguably as sexy as this song’s music video.

Saint-Amour… Ahh, the eponymous wine of love. This small, obscure Cru (classified) appellation is in the northernmost part of Beaujolais, which itself is technically part of the Burgundy region of France. Like its bigger sisters, Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages (and let’s not forget France’s illegitimate love child, Beaujolais Nouveau), Saint-Amour wines are made of 100% Gamay.

Gamay (rhymes with gold lamé, a very sexy fabric) reigns supreme in this part of the world (Beaujolais and parts of the Loire Valley), and found only in trace amounts elsewhere – Canada is in fact one of the only other major locations where Gamay is used in commercial winemaking.

What else is sexy about this wine? Okay, how about the kick-ass 2009 vintage. It was one of the best years for winemakers in France in recent history – perfect weather conditions during the growing season and at the time of harvest helped render these grapes into vinous va-va-voom.

Henry Fessy Saint-Amour 2009

Owned by Maison Louis Latour, the house with the most Burgundy Grand Cru acreage in the world, Henry Fessy’s Saint-Amour land totals 1 hectare.

She is a trendsetter with her iconic orange neckwear. Even the label, her shirt, is looking sultry as it peels off the chilled, condensation-coated bottle, seductively. And a moustache logo to boot? Win, win and win.

Brilliant ruby in colour, this wine exudes a gentle nose of raspberries, red plums, blueberries, mineral and a hint of violets. The palate is juicy yet delicate, with incredibly silky texture, a fairly light to medium body, low tannin and an intriguingly un-intense but persistent finish – like the time your romantic date with The One ended exactly the way you wanted. Oh, you know what I mean. Hey, this wine made me blush too.

Pair this elegant beauty with silk pajamas; or better yet, creamy moussaka, baba ghanouj, rare lamb chops, skin-on grilled chicken thighs (skin is sexy, my friends), rabbit or duck breast. I enjoyed it immensely slightly chilled, and I hope you will too.

$25 in BC Liquor Stores. Recently rated 92 points by Wine Enthusiast.

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Dr. Loosen Urziger Wurtzgarten Spatlese Riesling 2005

I’d always been interested in experimenting with the aging and development of white wines, although my observations as a consumer inform me that there just aren’t too many examples of ageable whites available in my local market, at least not ones that can be found without some deep digging around liquor store shelves (and your wallet).

Fortunately, one can always count on cool-climate, quality appellation Riesling to offer some type of cellaring potential. Its abdundant phenolics (flavour compounds) and high natural acidity almost ensure that a good quality Riesling wine will continue to show plenty of deliciousness and refreshing qualities, not to mention added complexity, with a bit of maturity. Some prestige Rieslings have even been known to drink well decades following the vintage!

Some places where top-notch Rieslings come from include the Mosel, Rheingau, Rheinhessen and Nahe areas of Germany; Australia’s Clare and Eden Valleys; the Kamptal region of Austria; Marlborough, New Zealand; the famous area of Alsace, France; and the Finger Lakes region of New York.

Here’s two quick tasting notes on this Dr. Loosen Riesling from the Mosel, of which I had purchased two bottles five or six years ago at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival.

I opened the first one two Mother’s Days ago (2009), when I had Mom over for a simple but exquisite dinner of boiled lobsters with lemon tarragon dipping butter. (Mmmm…)

Bright yellow in colour, the nose was a zesty bouquet of lemon, grapefruit, lime, honey and chalky mineral. The slightly off-dry palate had a searing line of acidity which cut through the rich flavours of our dinner perfectly, albeit the wine was a bit fruity for the relatively neutral taste of delicately sweet lobster in butter.

I reckoned that there was still some time for this wine to develop, so I waited for another occasion to open the next bottle.

The second, I shared with my family at a Mother’s Day dinner I prepared last month with an armload of goodies from Granville Island Public Market – the highlights being a pot of Quadra Island scallops in coconut basil lemongrass broth and boiled BC spot prawns with a dip of bird’s eye chilis, cilantro, garlic and green onion in lemon juice.

This time, the aromatic wine was an even bigger success paired with the equally flavourful ingredients of my seafood dishes.

This is an image of the bottle opened May 2011 - the other one was downed far too quickly for me to remember my camera!

With two more years in storage, my wine had become more developed on the nose, with riper fruit notes and more honey and apricot scents; and the freshness of the mineral and lime aromas turned to a smokier smell of heated rocks and hints of spice.

In the mouth, the new scents echoed on the palate with a silkier mouthfeel – my mouth no longer puckered after each sip as it did with the first bottle. The off-dry character remained, yet tasted more integrated with these riper, verging on tropical fruit flavours and more balanced acidity.

Tasting both examples over the course of two years was a great experience I’ll be looking to try on another series of white wines again in the future. Stay tuned!

Two Alsatians

For those who enjoy white wines, it doesn’t get much better than Alsace.

From harmonious matches made in food heaven, even at the low end, to cellar-worthy additions that will experience chameleonic change over years, sometimes decades, of aging potential, there is something for everyone in this most famous of white wine regions.

Alsace lies in a northeastern pocket of France bordering the Vosges mountain range, an area blessed with soils rich in minerals and a continental climate.

The first vineyards were planted in Alsace more than 2,000 years ago. Today, over 5,000 wine producers exist in Alsace, with roughly 220 of the largest wineries representing 90% of all production.

There are three AOC (classified) appellations in Alsace:

Alsace AOC

Expect fresh, fruity and food-friendly still wines made generally of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Sylvaner, Pinot Gris or Pinot Blanc.

Alsace Grand Cru AOC

Single vineyard, premium still wines made only from the noble Alsatian varietals: Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. Accounts for roughly 4% of total production in Alsace. Grand Crus usually display higher complexity and characteristics of the vines’ terroir. Some late harvest wines are made under this classification.

Crémant d’Alsace AOC

Mainly made from Pinot Blanc, although some Crémant Roses are produced by blending with Pinot Noir, this is Alsace’s sparkling wine classification.

Moreover, these three classifications comprise the only French AOCs that can be officially labeled by varietal.

Below, a quick glance at two different Alsace AOC wines that I hope will whet your appetite for more!

Facts and figures above courtesy of Thierry Fritsch of CIVA (Conseil interprofessionel des vins d’Alsace – www.vinsalsace.com), with whom I had the pleasure of dining with in June 2009.

My very first attempt at cooking with phyllo pastry shown here.

Dopff et Irion “Les Crustaces” Alsace AOC 2007

Opened January 22, 2010. This golden blonde beauty is a blend of Sylvaner, Auxerrois Blanc (sometimes called Pinot Auxerrois) and Pinot Blanc. The nose is subtly juicy, with fresh aromas of lychee (litchi), peaches and pears with a touch of minerality. An off-dry, juicy palate of pears, citrus and apple flavours is underscored by refreshing acidity and notes of stone and gravel through the finish. Trust the label’s nod to crustaceans and pair with poached prawns, fresh crab or a scallop ceviche. Huge value! $12

Yes, that is a Mac in the background.

Pierre Sparr Riesling Alsace AOC 2005

Opened January 29, 2010. It’s not quite the neon hue of Mountain Dew, but it’s certainly a bright lemon yellow. Equally vibrant is its fragrant nose of lime peel, stones and white flowers with Granny Smith apple notes. This wine’s palate shows the greener side of Alsace: Citrus, lime, green apples, chalk and wet stones form a tart mélange on the tongue with bracing acidity that hints at several more years’ worth of enjoyment. Try alongside a lemony sole meuniere for the “like with like” pairing, or contrast it with another Alsatian specialty, onion tart, for a tasty balancing act. $13 for 375 ml (can be found in full bottles for $20)