Chateau Haut-Bergey Blanc 2007

Dear Readers,

Let me boldly interrupt my summer-long hiatus from blogging by introducing to you the best wine I’ve enjoyed so far this year, hands down: Ch Haut-Bergey Blanc 2007 from Pessac-Léognan.

A find from last fall’s BC Liquor Stores Bordeaux Release, an annual promotion I’m proud to say I used to work on, this wine waited patiently on my wine rack for nearly a year until I decided to uncork ce petit chiot (“this little puppy” in French, naturellement) on my birthday in August.

And what an excellent gift this wine was to the tastebuds, indeed!

A little bit of background info:

Together, Ch Haut-Bergey and Ch Branon (Pessac-Léognan) plus Ch Barde-Haut (St-Emilion) and Clos l’Eglise (Pomerol) comprise the Bordeaux properties of Vignobles Garcin, a small family-owned wine conglomerate.

The white wines of Haut-Bergey come from a mere 2 hectares of Graves soil, well known for a high gravel composition (from which Graves gets its name), excellent drainage, and the unique trait of imparting particularly mineral-tasting characteristics into wines from that area. Graves is 50 km inland from the Atlantic coast, along the southern edge of the Garonne, an estuary of the famous river Gironde in Bordeaux.

I’m sure by now you’re asking, “So… What the hell did it taste like?!” Indulge me while I offer a few more fun facts.

Made of 82% Sauvignon Blanc and 18% Semillon from mature vines (35 years on avg.), only 8,000 bottles of this wine are produced. Hand-picked grapes, grown under la lutte raisonée (philosophy of minimal intervention), are fermented in stainless steel vats; 30% of the grapes then aged in French barrels over 12 months.

Ahh… Okay, now let us give the tasting note.

Ch Haut-Bergey Blanc 2007, Pessac-Léognan

Lemon in colour. The nose reveals an inimitable Bordeaux white wine bouquet of crushed granite, ripe apple, freshly sliced citrus, burnt grass and hints of tropical fruit with cerebral intensity. Not to be outshone by the heady scent, the palate is at once radiant and delicate, with wave after wave of juicy citrus, quince, mango, gravel and subtle warm spices from the oak aging. Supported by a firm acidic backbone, the velvety textured wine feels rich in body yet refreshing at the same time. The only thing holding one back from rushing to down the entire bottle is the wine’s delectable finish.

Fantastic with oysters on the half-shell (which was the food theme of my birthday party), and I’ll wager that a slice of that heavenly chèvre (soft goat’s cheese) with preserved lemon from Les Amis du Fromage would be another mouth-watering pairing. $59 last year at BCLDB.

Some echoes of praise from the pros:

Profile: This white wine is very accomplished: it is just a shame that they have such a miniscule vineyard. They are almost Burgundian in style with their plushness and creaminess. If you can find a bottle, these are well worth picking up for they are very reasonably priced given their scarcity.
- 92-94 pts, Wine Advocate

Golden. Oaky nose. Palate also quite oaky, with nice weight of fruit. Creamy-rich, with nice freshness. Oak tannin on the finish a little dominant. Sound effort. Drink 2012-18.
- 15 points / 3 stars, Decanter

 

One Week in Beantown

I’m veering a bit off the wine blog route tonight to share my Boston experience with you.

How did Veni Vini Vici arrive in Boston, might one ask? In short, I was looking for a wine-related trip, and I only had one week off, so I didn’t want to travel so far that transit would take up half my vacation. As it turned out, Boston Wine Expo was happening January 22-23 and was purported to be America’s largest wine festival – so I put two and two together and figured a voyage to the land of America’s founding fathers was in order!

From the lovely people to the delicious wine and food, Boston was everything I was looking for in a cosmopolitan winter vacation: Warm hospitality, a fantastic dining scene, wonderful new wine experiences, local and international culture by the truckload, and of course, the requisite piles and piles of New England seafood.

I’m so glad I visited and can’t wait until my next Baahston adventchah!

Here are some of my favourite highlights from my trip in pictures.

Imagine waking up every day across the street from this fabulous view! This is Boston's Old South Church on Boylston Street. I stayed at the very posh and comfortable Lenox Hotel. (I splurged for a nice place, but you know what? It was totally worth it.)

A most amazing grilled banana and honey sandwich on pain de mie with cinnamon butter. How I, the die-hard savoury tooth, came to order this for breakfast is a long and hilarious story, but suffice it to say, Mike and Patty's, the place where I ate this, was where I ate the best food and met the best people all week. If I could FedEx myself a breakfast from them, I would. (www.mikeandpattys.com)

WARNING: Sensory overload!! Yes, you are looking at a glass of Domaine Joseph Drouhin Clos des Mouches Blanc Premier Cru 2006. Heady, honeyed, citrusy, nutty and truffly all at once, this was a fantastic wine. This was wine no. 4 in a flight of eight delicious 2006 Burgundies which I admit, took me lots of effort to savour the morning after spending 12 hours in transit!.

The wines of the Drouhin seminar (hosted by Laurent Drouhin):

  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Chablis “Les Clos” Grand Cru 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet Folatières Premier Cru 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche Premier Cru 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Premier Cru 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny “Les Amoureuses” Premier Cru 2006
  • Dom. Joseph Drouhin Musigny Grand Cru 2006

I love Loire Valley, part one. A creamy, long, intense and indulgent Vouvray.

I love Loire Valley, part two. This was my first time trying red Sancerre (read: Pinot Noir). So characterful with lots of savoury herbal notes, earth and mineral. Whoever Lucien Crochet is swept me off my feet.

Hedonistic Reason #1 Why I Love Boston: The flat-out obnoxious amounts of fresh seafood you can get away with eating almost year-round. Case in point: This chunky lobster roll that I devoured at the Barking Crab restaurant in Fort Point. (Note: For perspective, this sandwich - looking down from above - is about the size of my face.)

I was really impressed by the amount of amazing Italian wineries showcasing their goods at Boston Wine Expo. Here are some of the producers I majorly geeked out on:

Ghiomo, Piemonte (http://www.ghiomo.it/en/)

Bosco Societa Cooperative Agricola, Puglia (Primitivo di Manduria DOC, Salento IGT)

This was my first time trying a Conero Rosso, after having read about the Marches in Lawrence Osborne's "The Accidental Connoiseur" and it was everything I thought it would be! Foresty, piney, stony, yet redolent of berries and peppery fruit... Yum.

Bricco Maiolica's Vigna Vigia is a vineyard named after the winemaker's great-grandmother Luigia. It is planted to Barbera and is made into a tasty, tasty single vineyard Barbera d'Alba.

Don't be fooled by the standard catering wine glasses, this is premium bubbly! This is the flight I tasted at the seminar by Champagne Ruinart, one of the oldest Champagne houses in France. (FYI - their house style is based on expressions of Chardonnay aka Blanc de Blancs.)

The wines in my Champagne Ruinart seminar:

  • Domaine Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV
  • Domaine Ruinart 1998 Blanc de Blancs
  • Domaine Ruinart 1993 Blanc de Blancs
  • Domaine Ruinart Brut Rosé NV
  • Domaine Ruinart 1996 Brut Rosé
  • Domaine Ruinart 1988 Brut Rosé

I'm a spoiled brat, because the first Ribera del Duero wine I'd ever tried was Vega Sicilia Alión 2004. (Ed.: Thanks Shea for the correction!) But I attended this Ribera del Duero seminar to learn more about the region, and it was great. I discovered great Tempranillos (locally called Tinto del Paìs) that were delicious in their youth as well as some moderately aged wines that showed lots of arid Ribera character. Here's two out of the 15 or so that I tried.

I think the best wines I tried all week were Italian wines. This is La Spinetta Ca' Di Pian Barbera d'Alba 2006, a powerful yet elegant and modern example of Barbera. So intensely perfumed with great integration of fruit and oak, this was a delight to drink and I only wish I could have more. (I purchased a half bottle at Papa Razzi, a mid-range trattoria on Newbury Street that even let me take my unfinished bottle home plugged up in a sealed plastic bag.) Vancouver totally needs more inexpensive-with-great-wine-list, unpretentious, no-fuss establishments like these. I walked in from the blistery cold looking like a homeless woolly mammoth, hungry and tired, and still received top-notch service from a girl named Alexa. Paired perfectly with my roasted eggplant, tomato, cheese and basil pasta.

Both the bronze frog at Boston Common and I are wondering, "Why are we outdoors when even an OUTDOOR skating rink has to close due to the cold?" (Temperatures reached at least -22ºC that day)

Some guy at the New England Aquarium remarked to his date that this was "the Bob Marley of jellyfish". It was all I could do not to burst out into laughter. The guy was totally right!

Yes, I completely realize how ironic and hypocritical it is to eat seafood on the same day that one visits an aquarium. But these bivalves were so tasty! Meaty cherrystone clams (about the size of a baby's palm, for perspective) and local New England oysters on the halfshell at Union Oyster House, the oldest restaurant in the US of A.

Best $12 I spent in Boston all week. Fenway Park gives hourly tours, and I had the privilege of being guided by Steve, a 79-year old who lived and breathed for baseball, Red Sox baseball to be exact.

Me at Fenway Park, home of the Boston Red Sox

Boston's North End neighbourhood is an Italian-American borough home to narrow alleys lined with brownstones, brick roads, and authentic Italian eateries. Mike's Pastry was just one of these places, and holy cannoli, were the pastries ever good! This Ricotta-filled, chocolate dipped cannoli was one of about 30 different kinds of cannoli available. Had I been feeling more gluttonous I would have eaten more... So much more.

Neptune Oyster was one of the first places I had found when researching for my Boston trip. It only seats about 50 people and is packed nearly every night, I'm told. I was lucky enough to get a seat at the bar when I entered, and no sooner had I sat down, there was already a lineup of waiting patrons out the door. This is a haven for local East Coast seafood, and while perpetually busy, it's well orchestrated and my server never forgot about me. I tried several New England oysters, including Island Creek, Mashpee and more Cherrystone clams, all of which I now pine for. Until my next visit...

I felt very American watching Obama's State of the Union address from my hotel room in Boston! Although I did inject a European sensibility with my half-bottle of Macon-Villages and tiny disc of creamy Vermont triple cream Champlain cheese.

Mike and Patty's, 12 Church Street, Boston, MA 02116. Do not miss this place if you visit! Terrific staff (Mike. the owner, is Canadian!) and incredible food. If I had the time and budget, I would totally visit Boston again just to try the rest of the menu.

I spent a whole day at the Bostom Museum of Fine Arts, but the art is so amazing that I have to recommend you visit there yourself. My pictures don’t do the art justice at all.

America loves its Dunkin' Donuts! It's what Tim Horton's is to Canada. Here's a crazy midday lineup inside the subway stop at Harvard.

Standing in the middle of Harvard Yard ('Hahvaad Yaaad,' so the cliché goes). I feel smarter already. (Or is it 'smaataa'?)

Just one specimen of the innumerable minerals on display at the Harvard Museum of Natural History. If I weren't so busy geeking out on wines in my everyday life, I'd definitely be geeking out on rocks. I was the girl in elementary school who dreamt of being a geologist when everyone else wanted to be a horse wrangler or a marine biologist.

Fortuitously, I chanced upon Julianne Moore's photo op at Harvard, as she received her Hasty Pudding "Woman of the Year" award from the university's acting troupe! (Fargo reference: She's a real super lady.)

It seemed ludicrous to end a trip to Boston without having steamed lobster. I'm so glad I found Jasper White's Summer Shack in Boston's Back Bay neighbourhood, about 2 blocks away from Berkelee College of Music! My epic "Last Supper" in Boston consisted of Summerside and Blue Point oysters on the halfshell, fried Ipswich clams, and a modest 1 lb. steamed lobster with melted butter dip and corn on the cob. If that's not satisfaction, I don't know what is.

I even had a little taste of Boston (well, technically California, but I digress) to bring home! Since I stayed a week at Lenox Hotel, they gave me a bottle of wine. (Did I mention their excellent service?) While this wasn't New England wine, this organic bottle still fit in with Lenox Hotel's eco-friendly principles, and for that I appreciate my stay there even more. (They even had garbage cans in each room with dividers for glass, plastic, paper and waste!)

Cheers, Boston – I’ll definitely be back for more!

Holiday Roundup, Part Six: New Year’s Eve

I wish I had these to eat every day.

There were a few things I did wrong this past New Year’s Eve:

  • I delayed my wine shopping to December 31st.
  • I lacked a concrete plan of what to do, where to eat.
  • I waited for the bus instead of flagging down a cab.

It all started when I woke up late, decided to take a yoga class – my way of preemptively kick-starting the required January detoxing – and discovered I had no food or liquor in the house.

Of course, in my frenzied state, I selected the busiest liquor store downtown, one that I had to line up for 20+ minutes to enter at 2:30 pm on New Year’s Eve. What had I been doing the previous day, I wondered, that could have possibly made me too busy to shop for wine earlier?

I battled the crowd and dashed toward the near-empty sparkling wine section. No luck there: Out of what I saw was affordable yet quaffable, there were only two bottles of Gloria Ferrer Brut left, and I let the less frazzled, more insistent-looking woman take both.

Hurriedly, I pinpointed my sales associate friend and got her to choose three bottles for me. Luckily, she had some discounted-to-$50 Champagne hidden in storage. Score for Veni Vini Vici.

It was only after I left the yoga studio with said three bottles of wine, a bag of sweaty workout clothes and my yoga mat – essentially tied down like a beast of burden – that I realized I had no groceries whatsoever for dinner! (Yes, if you must know, I did feel incredibly awkward and guilty going in and out of the yoga centre with bags of liquor in hand.)

I huffed and puffed my way up to Whole Foods – the only grocer still open on New Year’s Eve past 6:00 pm – and tornadoed through their seafood and deli sections, Looney Tunes Tasmanian Devil-style, for anything and everything fresh and easily preparable.

At this point, loaded up (or down, rather) with 20 – 30 pounds of food, alcohol and workout gear, you’d think I’d eagerly cough up cab fare to get home. But I was too exhausted to think, too sore to find my wallet again after carefully jamming it back into the last few available square inches of my already over-stuffed bags. I plodded on the express bus and headed on my jerky but free ride home.

Despite the fact that I didn’t manage to visit any of my friends’ house parties, I think I had a pretty stellar New Year’s Eve – one that was actually a lot more gourmet and extravagant than I had thought possible, given my whirlwind afternoon.

Here’s how I fared:

New Year’s Eve Dinner – December 31, 2009

  • Snack
    • Assorted Olives
    • Wild Salmon Caviar and Cream Cheese Canapes
    • Served with El Rocio Manzanilla Sherry
  • First Course
    • Effingham and Royal Miyagi Oysters on the Halfshell
    • Served with Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Brut N/V
  • Second Course
    • Whole Wheat Spaghetti tossed with Smoked Salmon Lox, Capers, Onion, Cream Cheese and Olive Oil
    • Served with Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Brut N/V
  • Dessert
    • Chocolate
    • Xumek Sol Huarpe Malbec Reserva 2007

Tasting Notes

El Rocio Manzanilla Sherry

Light straw, sandy in colour. A delicately saline, nutty nose with hints of yeast. Dry with a sharp, tangy pungency in the mouth – this light-bodied sipper calls for food, preferably shellfish (mussels, prawns) or light tapas. $13 for 375 ml

Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Brut N/V

Light lemon in colour with numerous streams of pert, persistent bubbles. Bread, apple and citrus on the fairly dry nose with some minerality. The palate is refreshingly dry with light to medium body and juicy fruit, cake and stone flavours on the tongue and more stone notes on the finish. Great with smoked salmon. Sole meuniere would also be a delicious pairing. Regular $85, on sale for $55

No Champagne flutes were hurt in the shooting of this photo.

Xumek Sol Huarpe Malbec Reserva 2007

From Argentina’s Zonda Valley. Purchased at 2009 Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. Opaque ruby-black in the glass. Aromas of leather, chocolate, black berries and earth dominate the nose. A full-bodied, velvety palate with big, lush tannins coats the mouth with flavours of juicy black fruits and a mix of leather, earth and warm spices, finishing long. $35